Life Page 3

  Bert and Doris had met working in the same factory in Edmonton—Bert a printer and Doris working in the office—and they had started out together living at Walthamstow. They had done a lot of cycling and camping during their courtship before the war. It brought them together. They bought a tandem and used to go riding into Essex and camping with their friends. So when I came along, as soon as they could, they used to take me on the back of their tandem. It must have been very soon after the war, or maybe even during the war. I can imagine them driving through an air raid, plowing ahead. Bert in front, Mum behind and me on the back, on the baby seat, mercilessly exposed to the sun’s rays, throwing up from sunstroke. It’s been the story of my life ever since—on the road again.

  In the early part of the war—before my arrival—Doris drove a van for the Co-op bakers, even though she told them she couldn’t drive. Luckily, in those days there were almost no cars on the road. She drove the van into a wall when she was using it illegally to visit a friend, and they still didn’t fire her. She also drove a horse and cart for bread deliveries closer to the Co-op, to save the wartime fuel. Doris was in charge of cake distribution for a big area. Half a dozen cakes for three hundred people. And she would be the decider of who would get them. “Can I have a cake next week?” “Well, you had one last week, didn’t you?” A heroic war. Bert was in a protected job, in valve manufacturing, until D-day. He was a dispatch rider in Normandy just after the invasion, and got blown up in a mortar attack, his mates killed around him. He was the only survivor of that particular little foray, and it left a very nasty gash, a livid scar all the way up his left thigh. I always wanted to get one when I grew up. I’d say, “Dad, what’s that?” And he’d say, “It got me out the war, son.” It left him with nightmares for the rest of his life. My son Marlon lived a lot with Bert in America for some years, while Marlon was growing up, and they used to go camping together. Marlon says Bert would wake up in the middle of the night, shouting, “Look out, Charlie, here it comes. We’re all goners! We’re all goners! Fuck this shit.”

  Everyone from Dartford is a thief. It runs in the blood. The old rhyme commemorates the unchanging character of the place: “Sutton for mutton, Kirkby for beef, South Darne for gingerbread, Dartford for a thief.” Dartford’s big money used to come from sticking up the stagecoach from Dover to London along the old Roman road, Watling Street. East Hill is very steep. Then suddenly you’re in the valley over the River Darent. It’s only a minor stream, but then you’ve got the short High Street and you’ve got to go up West Hill, where the horses would drag. Whichever way you’re coming, it’s the perfect ambush point. The drivers didn’t stop and argue—part of the fare would be the Dartford fine, to keep the journey going smoothly. They’d just toss out a bag of coins. Because if you didn’t pay going down East Hill, they’d signal ahead. One gunshot—he didn’t pay —and they’d stop you at West Hill. So it’s a double stickup. You can’t get out of it. That notion had pretty much stopped when trains and cars took over, so probably by the middle of the nineteenth century they’re looking for something else to do, some way of carrying on the tradition. And Dartford has developed an incredible criminal network—you could ask some members of my extended family. It goes with life. There’s always something fallen off the back of a lorry. You don’t ask. If somebody’s just got a nice pair of diamond somethings, you never ask, “Where did they come from?”

  For over a year, when I was nine or ten, I was waylaid, Dartford-style, almost every day on my way home from school. I know what it is like to be a coward. I will never go back there. As easy as it is to turn tail, I took the beatings. I told my mum that I had fallen off my bike again. To which she replied, “Stay off your bike, son.” Sooner or later we all get beaten. Rather sooner. One half are losers, the other half bullies. It had a powerful effect on me and taught me some lessons for when I grew big enough to use them. Mostly to know how to employ that thing little fuckers have, which is called speed. Which is usually “run away.” But you get sick of running away. It was the old Dartford stickup. They have the Dartford tunnel now with tollbooths, which is where all the traffic from Dover to London still has to go. It’s legal to take the money and the bullies have uniforms. You pay, one way or another.

  My backyard was the Dartford marshes, a no-man’s-land that stretches three miles on either side along the Thames. A frightening place and fascinating at the same time, but desolate. When I was growing up, as kids we’d go down to the riverbank, a good half an hour ride on a bike. Essex County was on the other side of the river, the northern shore, and it might as well have been France. You could see the smoke of Dagenham, the Ford plant, and on our side the Gravesend cement plant. They didn’t call it Gravesend for nothing. Everything unwanted by anyone else had been dumped in Dartford since the late nineteenth century —isolation and smallpox hospitals, leper colonies, gunpowder factories, lunatic asylums—a nice mixture. Dartford was the main place for smallpox treatment for all of England from the time of the epidemic of the 1880s. The river hospitals overflowed into ships anchored at Long Reach—a grim sight in the photographs, or if you were sailing up the estuary into London. But the lunatic asylums were what Dartford and its environs were famous for—the various projects run by the dreaded Metropolitan Asylums Board for the mentally unprepared people, or whatever they call it these days. The deficient in brain. The asylums drew a belt around the area, as if somebody had decided, “Right. This is where we’re going to put the loonies.” There was a massive one, very grim, called Darenth Park, which was a kind of labor camp for backward children until quite recent times. There was Stone House Hospital, whose name had been changed to something more genteel than the City of London Lunatic Asylum, which had Gothic gables and a tower and observation post, Victorian-style—where at least one suspect for Jack the Ripper, Jacob Levy, was imprisoned. Some of the nuthouses were for harder cases than others. When we were twelve or thirteen, Mick Jagger had a summer job at the Bexley nuthouse, the Maypole, as it was called. I think they were a bit more upper-class nutters —they got wheelchairs or something—and Mick used to do the catering, taking round their lunches.

  Almost once a week you’d hear sirens going—another loony escaped—and they’d find him in the morning in his little nightshirt, shivering on Dartford Heath. Some of them escaped for quite a while, and you’d see them flitting through the shrubbery. It was a feature of life when I was growing up. You still thought you were at war, because they used the same siren if there was a breakout. You don’t realize what a weird place you’re growing up in. You’d give people directions: “Go past the loony bin, not the big one, the small one.” And they’d look at you as if you were from the loony bin yourself.

  The only other thing that was there was the Wells firework factory, just a few little isolated sheds on the marsh. It blew itself up one night in the ’50s, and a few guys with it. Spectacular. As I looked out my window, I thought the war had started again. All the factory was making then was your tuppenny banger, your Roman candles and your golden shower. And your jumping jacks. Everybody from around there remembers that—the explosion that blew the windows out for miles around.

  One thing you’ve got is your bike. Me and my mate Dave Gibbs, who lived on Temple Hill, decided it would be cool if we put those little cardboard flappers on the back wheel so it sounded like an engine when the spokes went round. We’d hear “Take that bloody thing away. I’m trying to get some sleep around here,” so we used to ride down to the marshes and the woods by the Thames. The woods were very dangerous country. There were buggers in there, hard men who’d scream at you. “Fuck off.” We took the cardboard flappers out. It was a place of madmen and deserters and tramps. Many of these guys were British Army deserters, a little like the Japanese soldiers who still thought the war was on. Some of them had been living there for five or six years. They’d cobbled together maybe a caravan or some tree house for shelter. Vicious, dirty swine they were too. The first time I got shot was by one of those
bastards—a good shot, an air gun pellet on the bum. One of our hangs was a pillbox, an old machine gun post, of which there were many along the tideway. We used to go and pick up the literature, which was always pinups, all crumpled up in the corner.

  One day we found a dead tramp in there, huddled up, covered in bluebottles. A dead para-fin. (Paraffin lamp, rhyming slang for tramp.) Filthy magazines lying around. Used rubbers. Flies buzzing. And this para-fin had croaked. He’d been there for days, weeks even. We never reported it. We ran like the fucking Nile.

  I remember going from Aunt Lil’s to infant school, to West Hill school, screaming my head off. “No way, Mum, no way!” Howling and kicking and refusing and refusing to go, but I did go. They had a way about them, grown-ups. I put up a fight, but I knew it was a full-on moment. Doris felt for me, but not that much. “This is life, boy, something we can’t fight.” I remember my cousin, who was Aunt Lil’s son. Big boy. He was at least fifteen, with a charm that cannot be imagined. He was my hero. He had a check shirt! And he went out when he wanted. I think he was called Reg. Cousin Kay was their daughter. She pissed me off because she had really long legs, could always run faster than me. I came in a valiant second every time. She was older than me, though. We rode my first horse together, bareback. A great old white mare that barely knew what was going on, that had been put out to pasture, if you could call it that round where we lived. I was with a couple of mates and Cousin Kay, and we got on the fence and managed to get on the horse’s back, and thank God she’s a sweet mare, otherwise if she had taken off I would have gone for a loop. I had no rope.

  I hated infant school. I hated all school. Doris said I was so nervous she remembered bringing me home on her back because I couldn’t walk, I was trembling so hard. And this was before the stickups and the bullying began. What they fed you was awful. I remember at infant school being forced to eat “Gypsy Tart,” which revolted me. I just refused it. It was pie with some muck burned into it, marmalade or caramel. Every schoolkid knew this pie and some actually liked it. But it wasn’t my idea of a dessert, and they tried to force me to eat it, threatening me with punishment or a fine. It was very Dickensian. I had to write out “I will not refuse food” three hundred times in my infantile hand. After so many times I had it down. “I,I,I,I,I,I,I… will,will,will,will…”

  I was known to have a temper. As if nobody else has one. A temper that was aroused by Gypsy Tart. In retrospect, the British education system, reeling from the war, had not much to work with. The PT master had just come from training commandos and didn’t see why he shouldn’t treat you the same as them even though you’re five or six years old. It was all ex-army blokes. All these guys had been in WWII and some of them were just back from Korea. So you were brought up with this kind of barking authority.

  I should have a badge for surviving the early National Service dentists. The appointments were I think two a year—they had school inspections —and my mum had to drag me screaming to them. She’d have to spend some hard-earned money to buy me something afterwards, because every time I went there was sheer hell. No mercy. “Shut up, kid.” The red rubber apron, like an Edgar Allan Poe horror. They had those very rickety machines in those days, ’49, ’50, belt-drive drills, electric-chair straps to hold you down.

  The dentist was an ex-army bloke. My teeth got ruined by it. I developed a fear of going to the dentist with, by the mid-’70s, visible consequences—a mouthful of blackened teeth. Gas is expensive, so you’d just get a whiff. And also they got more for an extraction than for a filling. So everything came out. They would just yank it out, with the smallest whiff of gas, and you’d wake up halfway through an extraction; seeing that red rubber hose, that mask, you felt like you were a bomber pilot, except you had no bomber. The red rubber mask and the man looming over you like Laurence Olivier in Marathon Man. It was the only time I saw the devil, as I imagined. I was dreaming, and I saw the three-pronged fork and he was laughing away, and I wake up and he’s going, “Stop squawking, boy. I’ve got another twenty to do today.” And all I got out of it was a dinky toy, a plastic gun.

  After a time the town council gave us a flat over a greengrocer’s in a little row of shops in Chastilian Road, two bedrooms and a lounge —still there. Mick lived one street away, in Denver Road. Posh Town, we used to call it—the difference between detached and semidetached houses. It was a five-minute bike ride to Dartford Heath and only two streets away from my next school, the school Mick and I both went to, Wentworth Primary School.

  I went back to Dartford to breathe the air not long ago. Nothing much had changed in Chastilian Road. The greengrocer’s is now a florist called the Darling Buds of Kent, whose proprietor came out with a framed photograph for me to sign, almost the moment I’d stepped onto the pavement. He behaved as if he was expecting me, the picture ready, as unsurprised as if I came every week, whereas I hadn’t been around there for thirty-five years. As I walked into our old house, I knew exactly the number of stairs. For the first time in fifty years I entered the room where I lived in that house, where the florist now lives. Tiny room, exactly the same, and Bert and Doris in the tiny room across a three-foot landing. I lived there from about 1949 to 1952.

  Across the street there were the Co-op and the butcher’s—that’s where the dog bit me. My first dog bite. It was a vicious bugger, tied up outside. Finlays tobacconist was on the opposite corner. The post box was still in the same place, but there used to be a huge hole on Ashen Drive where a bomb dropped, which is now covered over. Mr. Steadman used to live next door. He had a TV and he used to open the curtains to let us kids watch. But my worst memory, the most painful that came back to me, standing in the little back garden, was the day of the rotten tomatoes. I’ve had some bad things happen, but this is still one of the worst days of my life. The greengrocer used to stack old fruit crates in the back garden, and a mate and I found all these far-gone tomatoes. We just squidged the whole packet up. We started having a rotten-tomato fight and we splashed them everywhere, tomatoes all over the place, including all over myself, my mate, the windows, the walls. We were outside, but we were bombing each other. “Take that, swine!” Rotten tomato in your face. And I went inside and my mum scared the shit out of me.

  “I’ve called the man.”

  “What are you talking about?”

  “I’ve called the man. He’s going to take you away, because you’re out of control.”

  And I broke down.

  “He’s coming here in fifteen minutes. He’ll be here any minute now to take you away into the home.”

  And I shat myself. I was about six or seven.

  “Oh, Mum!” I’m on my knees, I’m pleading and begging.

  “I’ve had it up to here with you. I don’t want you anymore.”

  “No, Mum, please…”

  “And on top of that, I’m going to tell your dad.”

  “Oh, Muuuuuum.”

  That was a cruel day. She was relentless. She kept it going for about an hour too. Until I cried myself to sleep and realized eventually that there was no man at all and that she had been putting me on. And I had to figure out why. I mean, a few rotten tomatoes? I guess I needed a lesson: “You don’t do that around here.” Doris was never strict. It was just “This is the way it is, this is what’s going to happen and you’re going to do this and do that.” But that’s the only time she put the fear of God into me.

  Not that we ever had the fear of God in our family. There’s nobody in my family that ever had anything to do with organized religion. None of them. I had a grandfather who was a red-blooded socialist, as was my grandmother. And the church, organized religion, was something to be avoided. Nobody minded what Christ said, nobody said there wasn’t a God or anything like that, but stay away from organizations. Priests would be considered with much suspicion. See a bloke in a black frock, cross the road. Mind out for the Catholics, they’re even dodgier. They had no time for it. Thank God, otherwise Sundays would have been even more boring than they w
ere. We never went to church, never even knew where it was.

  I went down to Dartford with my wife, Patti, who had never been there, and my daughter Angela, who was our guide, being a native of the place and brought up, like me, by Doris. And while we were standing there in Chastilian Road, out of the next-door shop, a unisex hairdresser’s called Hi-Lites that only had room for about three customers, came what seemed like fifteen young female assistants of an age and type I recognized. It would have been nice if it had been there when I was there. Unisex salon. I wonder what the greengrocer would have had to say about that?

  In the next minutes or so, the dialogue went along these familiar lines.

  Fan: Can we have your autograph, please? It’s to Anne and all the girls at Hi-Lites. Come into the hairdresser’s, have your hair cut. Are you going to Denver Road where Mick lived?

  KR: That’s the next one up, right?

  Fan: And I want you to sign one to my husband.

  KR: Oh, you married? Oh, shit.

  Fan: Why you asking? Come into our salon.… Got to get a piece of paper. My husband’s not going to believe this.

  KR: I’d forgotten what it was like to be mobbed by Dartford girls.

  Older Fan: These are all too young to appreciate it. We remember you.

  KR: Well, I’m still going. Whatever you’re listening to now, they wouldn’t have been there without me. I’m going to have dreams about this place tonight.

  Fan: Did you ever imagine, in that little room?

  KR: I imagined everything. I never thought it would happen.

  There was something intrinsically Dartford about those girls. They’re at ease, they hang together. They’re almost like village girls—in the sense that they belong to one small place. Still, they give that feeling of closeness and friendliness. I used to have a few girlfriends in Chastilian Road days, though it was purely platonic at the time. I always remember one gave me a kiss. We were about six or seven. “But keep it dark,” she said. I still haven’t written that song. Chicks are always miles ahead. Keep it dark! That was the first girlfriend thing, but I was mates with a lot of girls as I grew up. My cousin Kay and I, we were friends for quite a few years. Patti and Angela and I drove past Heather Drive, near the heath. Heather Drive was really upscale. This is where Deborah lived. I got this incredible fixation on her when I was eleven or twelve. I used to stand there looking at her bedroom window, like a thief in the night.